Wednesday, I was so much in a hurry to pack everything for Thursday morning outbound flight to LAS. I arranged where my little Jonas would stay and scheduled pick-up date and time, tentative Sunday morning. I scrolled checklist after checklist and then repeatedly checking what I needed to bring. Many times I bring gears not needed for the trip.
I have never been to the Grand Canyon before. This trip was somewhat pre-planned more than 6 months ago. I would be joining the SouthCal group. Few of the hikers I hiked last year would be joining the trip. I was not really sure of what I was doing nor what to expect. All I know was, I was heading to the Grand Canyon.
By February my companion already had flight arrangement. I did not secure flights until March. The rest of the bookings were done by Bill. In a way I felt spoiled by that. I emailed to the hiking leader of my arrival date. Every hiker relied on information posted on meetup. Not me however. I honestly do not know where we would start and where we would end. Put in bluntly, Im such in no mood to travel that far for an altitude just above 8000 ft. Unlike 14ers, it is more strenuous and more bragging rights. I am also more into alpine climbing and my mountaineering experience are more into alpinism.
So my companion and I headed to SMF bound for LAS. I have never been to Vegas but I figured that the landscape may have resemblance in Dubai, UAE. And I was right. Looking from the window above the sky, the view is very much similar whenever a plane for DXB landed. I liked it, it brought back memories.
From LAS, a 5-hour drive to the Grand Canyon. I really felt I travelled too much just to run/hike 50 miles. We stopped for an early dinner in historic Route 66. Bill did all the driving.
Fast-forward, we arrived in the Grand Canyon late afternoon, checked in and prepared everything needed for the next day. We stopped at Pipecreek to view the Grand Canyon. It was absolutely a nature’s bounty. My companion and I were overwhelmed by its beauty and unique landscape. How I felt not to travel this far, now changed to getting very excited. It was absolutely “that” stunning. I have not seen such wonderful god’s creation ever.
I had drop my companion at South Kaibab 4AM as planned, then I have to find something to do while waiting for my group to arrive Friday night. I wanted to ride a bike but that the bike rental is not opening until mid-June. The Grand Canyon though is so irresistible that I wanted to run down to the canyon by myself, just like what my companion did.
Friday Run – South Kaibab to Bright Angel (I planned to run SK to BA but it did not work out due to water supply)
So I went back to S. Kaibab trailhead to start my run. Many hikers were already there, from all over the US and the world. I often hear non-English speaking hikers. The ranger stopped me after he saw me carrying just a bottle of water. The Ranger asked where was I going. I said, “to the canyon”. The Ranger warned me not to attempt something stupid because it gets too hot in the canyon. I was told that should I insist to go, I had to turn around at Skeletal Point.
I continued my running. Around mile 2, I saw three runners going to South Kaibab. All of them were very sweaty. They must have come from the North Rim. I asked the lead runner if there’s water in Phantom Ranch and he said “no”.
It took me only over an hour to reach mile 7. I love any kind of downhill, sort of my expertise. When I reached the Skeletal Point, I continued instead of going back. I thought I could refill water in Phantom Ranch but there was pipe break that day. And it just happened, was worried that my companion may or may have not enough water. After the first bridge, I turned around to go back up, but before attempting to power hike 5000 ft of vertical gain, I scouted to find water. Luckily, there was a ranger cleaning the rest room shed and she had potable emergency water. At mile 5, there was a lady runner heading to Phantom Ranch. I told her that there was a pipe break and that water was in ration state, told her to stop in the shed as there was emergency water.
Apparently, many runners and hikers alike experienced not having enough water to go back up South Kaibab. The female ranger was very friendly enough to give water. So I went back up the same trailhead. The ranger who warned me though had already radioed few rangers patrolling the Grand Canyon, that a stubborn female runner attempting something impossible. The reason why I know it, because every hiker going down had asked me if I have enough water. There was even a ranger who patiently waiting for me, halfway through the trek, offering me some water.
When I made it back to South Kaibab, few hikers asked me if I was alright so I nodded politely. The rangers made me famous that day. I took the free bus ride that would take me to another point for sightseeing before heading back to the Visitor Center. From there I changed bus that would take me to Market Center. The bus driver had a great sense of humour. He said, “if you like fried chicken or any kind of burgers, this is your stop. There won’t be any more fried chicken in the next 30 miles”. The passengers were all laughing.
I ate lunch at Yavapai café. The 5000’ of vertical gain got me so hungry I was jittery. Then I continued on to Bright Angel. This time I brought my hydro-pack, I really do not wish to run out of water.
The scenery were almost similar in South Kaibab, except that it is more crowded. I’ve never seen such foot traffic, not even in Yosemite. The more miles I downhill, the less crowd it is. Ive been receiving SPOT updates where Bill’s location exactly. The good thing is Bright Angel had better signal than SK.
From where I stop, I figured Bill would be 15 or 16 more miles away. It was very hot that day. I could imagine how hot it would be in the bottom canyon. I waited a little until I got tired of saying hi to every hiker, then I headed back to the Bright Angel Lodge.
One store had a long line of customers and saw many visitors having ice cream. I thought what a treat. I wish every hiking trip I go, there would be ice cream waiting for me – my wishful thinking.
Still no sign of my companion getting closer in BA trailhead, so I took the bus headed back to Yavapai Lodge where we were staying, showered and ready to sleep to end the day. Another sms received and my companion almost reaching the BA trailhead. It was a bummer that I was not there to capture this feat. I could have taken heaps of photos. Few minutes later Bill texted that he already arrived. So there I go went to pick-up my companion. Though I was not there but it worked out alright. My companion was so tired all that 12 hour running the canyon. It takes about 40 minutes by bus to get back to our lodge but my companion did not have to do that. My companion had the sexy chauffer, fresh off the shower…lol. Then we had dinner together and talked about what transpired that day.
Back to our lodge, it was my turn to prepare for Saturday’s expedition with my SouthCal group. I still have not heard from them. I called and texted but no luck. That night before bedtime, I heard from Kate, the hiking leader. They intend to start 8AM, quite late for me since I would be fast tracking my traverse to North Rim. The original group I was signed was nowhere to find. The leader – Udi, have not responded to my calls nor text at all.
I was undecided what to do. I rather not hike alone but I have done hiking alone many times but not this scale of risk. My companion said that it is safer for me to do Grand Canyon than bagging Tyndall alone. So true – it was quite scary when I tried bagging Tyndall and it was extremely cold as well.
My solo Rim2Rim
I trekked solo. I expected that the sandstorm would dissipate that day so its nothing to worry. At around 6AM Saturday, my companion dropped me at South Kaibab to start my journey to the North Rim. I carried with me 12 pound backpack. I ran with it but it was quite bouncy on my back. Still did my running downhill, but it was not faster than Friday run. Only mile 3 when I thought a sand storm just slapped the canyon. It was very gusty and quite dangerous to traverse. The gust estimate could be between 40 to 45 and even higher at higher elevation. Before the bridge, the wind somewhat died only to pack more wallop when I nearly reached Phantom Ranch, my water refill break.
I saw a speedy runner who fits the profile of a Kenyan athlete. This tall black man must be a pro. He past me like he was chasing a lightning. Im guessing the man must be the fastest that day.
At Phantom Ranch, it was crowded with Boy Scouts (more than 30 of them), Hikers and Runners in qeueu for water refill. There was no lemonade for sale that day. After my turn to refill, I continued on. That stop alone cost me more than 30 minute break. I continued to Cottonwood where I plan to eat my lunch. The wind gust had not let go, its more like it just started. It was not I expected. Its actually more tiring to hike and deal with the wind.
At Cottonwood, I found a shade where I can eat lunch and be protected from strong wind. As I chowed my food, I was greeting hikers and runners like every minute. The Grand Canyon trail was so crowded that day.
My next vista point is Ribbon Falls. It was almost 1PM. The gusty wind pushed me everywhere. Some hikers and runners had to stop and wait til it mellow. I never stop. I don’t mind being pushed up but I was scared when the wind direction pushed me towards a cliff.
I battled the winds for hours. I could easily do my traverse in under 8 hours but the wind would not allow me complete my traversing on time.
When I reached Supai Tunnel, the wind sort of mellow its speed. But this time though, I was extremely exhausted. Luckily I had been training alpine climbing where wind gusts could pack as high as 80mph. Yeah I was that of a deranged gal but there’s always a reward at the peak.
North Rim is greener. As what Bill told, it has more vegetation and higher altitude. The Supai Tunnel was my longest trek for the entire trip. I had no idea what to do at the top. From what I read I could just hitch a ride and most would be happy to do so if I say I did Rim2Rim.
A half mile left to go and I saw Bill, already waiting for me. I was so happy. I mean extremely happy. I thought Im going to suffer for another 2 hours more. I was surprised to find my companion already there. He is normally always “late”. I mean really really “late” …lol.
So my companion dropped me to the shower station so I can have my hot shower. You need 6 quarters to use this facility. From there we headed to Vegas for a well deserve muchin’ buffet dinner.
Even though the trip is not a 14er. It was all worth it. I’ve never seen such grandeur of beauty in the desert. I won’t hesitate to go back again.
With much appreciation to my companion for dragging my feet to the Grand Canyon.
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