Thunderbolt Peak (14003') Winter Attempt (Jan 15, 2012)

Thanks to JJ Yosh for organizing this trip.

Images are stored here https://picasaweb.google.com/112364082721983243207/ThunderboltPeak#

Drove approximately 300 miles to Bishop Pass TH (South Lake) to meet the group around 12 midnight on Friday. Left TH parking around 08:00 hours on Saturday for a trek to Bishop Pass and to base camp near Mt. Winchell.


Bitter cold did not stop the group from attempting to summit on Jan 15. We left base camp around 04:00 hrs, traversed our way to Thunderbolt Pass and found the chute that would take us to the summit.


The night before, I had my hydropack placed inside my sleeping bag to prevent from freezing. I thought that my water supply would be safe from the sub-freezing temperature but I was wrong. Only few minutes from bouldering, my hydropack hose freezed. It was the start of the punishing climb. I was not the only one who had issues with water supply. My group though are experienced mountaineers so they helped me get through it. And I ate snow to quench my thirst.


We encountered a lot of problems to make it to the summit. In this trek, we faced all types of terrain : icy-dicy, postholing, talus, scree, unstable rocks, hard-compact-soft snow, steep and unfriendly slope. When we reached the chute, that's when we encountered slicky ice. Neither the Chockstones nor the C3 Ledges were passable. My group attempted at least but its not safe to continue. By 08:45 hrs, the group decided to abort to summit.


It took more than 2 hours of traversing back to base camp. We left camp around 13:30 hours to hiked out back to TH. It was expected the wind gust would pick-up by afternoon. Because of the freezing condition, we encountered more postholing when we trek the JMT switchbacks and icy trail near the trailhead. It was the most trying hike I've ever done.


If you don't know Thunderbolt Peak, here are some stats:


Trailhead: Bishop Pass (South Lake)
Total Distance: ~24mi
Total Elevation Gain: ~5940ft
Distances and Eleveation gain:

• South Lake to Bishop Pass (trail): 7.5mi, 2240ft.
• Bishop Pass to Palisade Basin (xc): ~2.5mi, ~1000ft
• Thunderbolt (xc): ~2mi, ~2700ft

Thunderbolt (14003ft, Southwest chute from Palisade basin, class (5.8)


Thunderbolt Peak was first attempted by very well known climbers like Norman Clyde. On their first attempt, only two climbers made it. It one of California's hardest 14er.


I am glad I did this trip. I had fun, I had adventure and I learned and gained more experience about mountaineering.