Mt. Whitney (14,508') Daytrip and Solo Winter Ascent - What was I Thinking ?

27/28 March 2015

To officially kick-off my vertical training 8000 metre peak or peaks, I chose Mt. Whitney. I chose this mountain, not because it's contiguous highest summit but the relatively easily accessible trailhead.

I arrived in Lone Pine around 9PM and filled out the self-issue permit. Day-hike and solo, a target round trip time of under 12 hours with the snow covered trail.

I was confident that I could make this trip under 12 hours. Really? Read on further....

Then I proceeded to the end of Whitney Portal Rd, car-camped and set the alarm. I normally can't sleep if I had to go on a long hike, but this time, not only that I was flat tired from working 11 hours 4 days in a row, but that I traveled after leaving work.

It was hard for me to get up myself when the alarm went off. It was 3AM when it first awoke me. After an hour of trying to get up, I finally had the energy to get ready. There were lots of cars parked in the portal parking, which is typically empty in March.

Around 4:30AM when I took off. I saw no one getting ready nor headlamps beaming nearby. I bravely entered the start of the trail. I told myself, I don't recall being on the start of the trail with daylight. Typically start in the dark and ends in the dark. I plan to change this but the only way to change things are, is to train more, faster and faster - my new goal.


I arrived in Mirror Lake still dark. I stopped to fix myself, put on sunblock, add layers and what else? Puff, puff and puff, my albuterol - just in case of bad asthma attack (yes I felt lungs were overworked already). I figured, I could move faster and less mistake if I am able to see the trail which was covered with packed snow. A lot of snowshoe and boot tracks, it is irritating to follow ones track, only to be connected to the not so desirable trail.

First photos taken with daylight

Took up the Snow Chute by Muir Summit, bypassing the Switchbacks. I didn't realize how steep and gnarly it was until I stopped for fueling. I looked the view behind me and what a big OH NO !

I was confident and cautious, concentrated on going up rather than panic or nervous wreck. I split my ascent in bits, without looking back, each movement is with preparedness towards this "SNAFU what-if-I-fall".  I kept the positive vibe until I made it to Trail Crest - my safest zone.

Images of Snow Chute in Winter

       (The pic above I use for visual purpose only)

From Trail Crest, it was now a walk-up to Summit. This time I can feel the "thin-air". My steps are much slower despite that it was an easy traverse.

Alas, I made it to summit Mt. Whitney. And what a fine, perfect and beautiful day it was...

Now the fun descend part, so I caught the men from SMC (Sierra Mountaineering Club). As much as I try not to annoy them with my slightly faster approach to Whitney, I had to pretend that I am not scared descending.

Calm and determined I was, but no way I am going to glissade without the ice axe and helmet and wearing my running boots only!... However I did try some pole-controlled glissading but not much luck. I even attempted to boot ski, only to almost lose my dear life. After all speedie descend failed, I decided to have patience and walk down applying some heel brakes. The snow accummulated under my feet, which allowed to advance my steps. In less than 1 mile, over 2000 feet of downhill, which killed my knees, I made it down back to Trail Camp safely. By the time I reached Outpost camp, my legs were jell-o..

The campers there stopped me to get some tips about how I made it up and down in a day dealing with the snow condition. I responded with the emphasis to travel "lite". The campers also told me that I was the first hiker to come back. I have not told the campers that I've been doing such kind of trekking for 5 years, almost every weekend and therefore my perspective in dealing with different mountain condition varies with one who goes in the back country on occasion only.

The climb and the route I took was risky if not dangerous. Think of climbing Thumb Rock in Mt. Shasta, that's what it felt like. I came back alive and unscathed, and god knows I was so thankful and happy for that!

It took me 16 hours of trekking portal-to-portal. Guess, I am still slow for the 12 hour goal. It's not my first time soloing Mt. Whitney though but it was my first time taking an unchartered territory, without the safety gear, that is, helmet and ice axe. In the snow free summer, my last run up to Whitney, it took a round trip of 7.5 hours portal to portal.

What was I thinking?


Disclaimer:
Note to Newbies - please don't attempt glissading. I have seen trekkers who glissade, even with safety gear, who came away shoulder, feet and head injuries. The Snow Chute Gulley is rated as Double Black Diamond. Don't attempt if you are not in the DB1 Ski level of expertise.